Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and tourists alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a prestigious list of world cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it joins a worldwide network of over 400 cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "demonstrates its deep-rooted food heritage and dynamic food ecosystem," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this historic city arrives as no surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, lively, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is now in the global gaze for what has consistently defined its heart: an profound devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a continued conversation from morning until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and raised to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of food experimentation, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases fresh harvests but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and carts – lesser-known treasures that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and demanding. The vendor beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however note that their children are unwilling to master the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people around the world to explore these narratives and visit the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
